Immediately I was assaulted by the Xe Om (Motorbike taxi) drivers that I would soon grow use to. "Miss! Miss! One hour tour! Very Cheap! Where you from? England! Football!" These words I would hear echoed across the country over the next month. I managed to shake them off but a particularly persistant one followed me down the street, whipping out a notebook with messages from old customers scrawled in it. I eventually agreed to hire him to take me to the War Remnants Museum- no more. It would turn out that I would spend the whole day with Tuan.
Tuan, my Xe Om guide |
Saigon on a motorbike! There are no words to describe the thrill of it! At first it's terrifying- horrifying. You're certain this is when you'll die. Today is the day. Soon you grow use to the rush and lack of rules. You begin to see the gracefulness amongst the chaos. They don't need rules, they move amongst each other as if they know beforehand what each motorbike will do. Occasionally you brush up against another rider, but it becomes less scary, you can relax and enjoy the ride.
Tuan gave me the full tour of the city. Museums, Pagodas, Churches, Temples, Parks, Art Galleries... Transported to each through these wild streets with the wind in my hair (my sunglasses were ripped free and run over by a bus).
Incense Sticks burn in a Buddhist Pagoda |
Woman Burns Candles for Prayer in Notre Dame Cathedral |
Eventually however, I was all pagoda-ered out and Tuan returned me safely to my hostel after a long, unbelievable first day.
It wasn't over.
When I had told Tuan that I wanted a full day tour and asked the price, he had told me "You choose, you choose!" So I had worked out how much I was going to give him going by what I had read of the average wage there (I was going to give him far higher for such a wonderful tour). Then he announced, that no, it wasn't my choice. He had a set price. It was astronomical. I refused. He grew angry. No longer sweet, informative Tuan who had told me about his children- I was scared. I shakily handed over almost all of my money (over £100) and fled, not bothering (as my Mother later scolded me for) to check his license plate. Not that that would have helped much- the police there are notorious for being uncooperative with tourists.
So, like millions of naive tourists, I had been ripped off. It was a harsh blow on my first day, but I refused to let it dampen my spirits. I had learnt my lesson- one that proved to be very useful in a poor country where tourists (not unfairly) are seen as fair game. Luckily, my experiences with the people would improve significantly however.
So as not to end on a bad note, here's a photo of a man relieving himself freely in public. You can't help but admire his recklessness can you?